Choose your kitchen’s shape wisely

June 2nd, 2010

Most of London’s properties has a small kitchens space and some cases tiny space and in a small kitchen every space available matters

Planning your kitchen will include many main areas from space for food preparation and cooking to washing up and storage so it essential to plan the room thoroughly.

The basic design rules for kitchens, however large or small depends on shape of the room, most common basic shapes for a kitchen plan are I, U and L shapes.

I shaped kitchen, in this type of kitchen, all appliances and storage are down one side of the room, making a neat, tidy and efficient line of kitchen cabinets

L shaped kitchen fits best where the kitchen can be installed into one corner.The L shaped kitchen can be either fitted neatly around the corner or if the space permits, one arm can be build into the room to act as a serving table or eating bar.

U shaped can be fitted in square kitchens and is often best in a confined space because the appliances can be installed around the cook, who stands in the centre and has everything within reach.

The most important decision when it comes to fitting a new kitchen, repairing old kitchen or renovating your kitchen is off course the kitchen fitter, hiring professional kitchen fitter in London is a wise investment

The Cost of Kitchen and Garage Conversions in London

June 2nd, 2010
Kitchen and garage conversions are the most popular way and relatively the lowest cost method of increasing the floor area of an existing property and adding real value to your house or flat.

Building extra space can be used in many ways form adding extra rooms, dining area, second living room, play room or home office to building a full extension .The cost of building a garage or Kitchen extensions can be reduced by choosing the right building materials and hiring an experienced building contractor in london

Most of the house extensions builders will provide you with a estimation of the total cost but you should insist on having a fixed price quotation and a clear step payments plan

You should make sure you builders use a contract and have the right kind of insurance

PLANNING PERMISSION For House Extensions

June 2nd, 2010

PLANNING PERMISSION

Usually you will not require planning permission, provided you do not exceed the permitted development limit for the property , 50-70 cubic metres, depending on where you live London.

If you have a listed buildings or you house is in conservation areas you do not benefit from “permitted development” and in most cases a full Planning Permission is needed.

Also if the property has been extended in the past, you will have to work out the used up space have and if you have used all your permitted development area you may need permission.

Your London Builder will have more information

Simple DIY : Fixing Your dripping taps

May 28th, 2010

If you are like me that think some plumbers charges unbelievable amount of money for small jobs, you may need some advice on simple DIY tasks

Find your main water supply and it off, let tap to drain the water

Remove the top plate of the tap handle by sliding a flat head screwdriver into the edges of the top plate and gently tap the screwdriver with a hammer until the top plate is loosened

Unscrew the main screw inside the tap handle and remove it to expose the hexagonal nut.
You will then be able to remove the old tap washer and replace it with a new washer

Some plumbing jobs can be done with a little DIY skills but if you need more complex work done you better call a professional plumbers in London near you

Advice: House Extensions and Loft Conversions in London

May 28th, 2010

Planning permission for loft conversions and house extensions is normally needed in most of London boroughs but depends on what other home improvements works you have done in the past you may not need permission

If you required a planning permission there are some conditions:

Loft conversion in London
Terraced house, has a volume allowance you have is 40 cubic metres but If you live in a semi-detached house, the volume allowance you have is 50 cubic metres;
Also note that your loft conversion cannot extend beyond the plane of the existing roof slope of the principal elevation that fronts the highway, one more really important restriction is that your loft conversion cannot be higher than the higher part of your existing roof; and you must use materials that are similar to the existing house

There are many other points that you must follow when you planning a loft conversion when it come s to the look and design of the conversion for examples you are not allowed any verandas, balconies or raised platforms as part of your extension, side-facing windows must be obscure-glazed and any opening should be 1.7m above the floor

The most valuable advice that you can get when you are building a house extensions, garage conversion or loft
Conversion is to choose an experienced building company that is able to carry out the work and advice on the best practice, choose the house extensions builders in London

London Recommended Builders

April 16th, 2010

First Builders Services
First Builders is a committed company that provides customer the best possible service. The company has the needed skills and experience required to complete the project from start to finish. The company can handle the entire project requirement and provide the services you need, from design and ideas to planning permission and installation.
Below are the services that the company can provide:
• Bathroom installation
Kitchen Fitting
Home extension
• Plastering tiling and painting
• Electrical installation
• Plumbing and heating
Bathroom installation services begin with ensuring all the bathroom sanitary ware, fixtures and tiles as well as ensure that fittings are precise, will be fitted appropriately and will be delivered at the proper time. The company usually gives advice out client as to when the installation will be finish. Our staffs usually work longer hours than the normal firms to ensure that the bathroom installation will be finished faster and you will not be waiting for too long. First Builders make sure that installing your bathroom is hassle free. Our fitters are experienced in bathroom installations.
The company also offers a complete kitchen fitting service whether you buy your new or replacement kitchen from us or somewhere else. This service also includes fitting of kitchen appliances and units, gas work, tiling, worktop assembly, electrical work, plumbing work, removal and worktop assembly of old kitchen fitments as needed to homes within London. Using the company’s own team of kitchen fitters your dream kitchen are taken care of properly.
If you need to home extension service the company can also provide it perfectly. No matter what type of extension it maybe the company will make sure that you will be happy with the result.
First Builders provide plastering services for local residents and have been recommended by many happy clients. The company can help with water damage to exterior and interior, electrical alterations or plaster damage prior to plumbing or painting. Our expert plasterers will restore the damage section. We offer competitive pricing scheme to ensure the clients that they will get the best quality of workmanship for less. Plastering also includes painting and tiling with quality that will surely satisfy you.
The company has the best and qualified electricians that are capable of doing all electrical works including the complete rewiring of properties. The works will be carried out by registered electricians.
The plumbing and heating services are being offered at very affordable price. First builders are focused on customer satisfaction and it is the main key in any business growth. The company is happy to deliver the excellent services to many new and returning customers with our plumbing and heating installations.

Sewer Inspections for Older Homes

March 12th, 2010

Sewer Line Inspections for Home Buyers

Very few first-time home buyers ask for a sewer inspection before buying a home. Sewer inspections are not something most buyers think about. They know to get a home inspection, but sewer lines are almost an after thought, if it crosses a buyer’s mind at all. Yet it’s one of the most important inspections a buyer of older homes should conduct.

The time to find out if a sewer is faulty or needs replacement is before buying a home, not after the fact. I recommend to all my buyers that they obtain a sewer inspection if the home is older than 20 years. Although the sewer line may be fairly new as compared to homes built before 1950, for example, tree roots can still clog up a 20-year-old sewer line.

Reasons to Inspect the Sewer Line

Tree roots growing into sewer lines is a common problem. Roots crawl into tiny openings and expand in the sewer line, latching on to other debris that typically cause backups such as grease or eggshell waste. Sometimes chemicals can kill the trees roots but if the roots reappear, the pipe may be damaged and require excavation to fix the problem.

Homes that were constructed prior to city sewers often relied on cesspools. After cities installed public septic systems, sometimes the cesspools were left intact and connected to the sewer line. You won’t know unless you inspect the sewer.

Many homes built in the 1950s have sewer lines made from tar paper called Orangeburg pipes. These disintegrate and collapse over time. If a home has Orangeburg, the sewer line definitely needs to be replaced.

How to Inspect a Sewer Line

Simply call a plumbing company and ask if the contractor can use a camera to inspect the sewer. Your real estate agent might be able to refer several companies to you. The plumbing company inserts a snake attached to a small video camera into the clean-out and snakes the camera through the sewer. You can watch the image on a monitor.

Not only will the plumbing company find out if the sewer line is clean or clogged, but the inspection will disclose the condition of the sewer. Ask the contractor to tell you what kind of material was used to construct the sewer line and whether that type of material is considered good construction today.

It might cost anywhere from $85 to $300 to have the sewer line inspected, but considering the cost to replace a sewer line, it’s money well spent.

Results From Sewer Inspections

Three homes recently inspected produced three separate results. The first home, built in 1930, was located in the Land Park neighborhood of Sacramento. The buyers, expecting the worst, were pleasantly surprised to learn the sewer line was brand new. This was a desirable selling point that the listing agent and the seller neglected to disclose.

The second home was located near the railroad tracks in Curtis Park. The plumbing company discovered the sewer line had almost completely collapsed and was beyond repair. The company recommended a new sewer line. The seller chose a plumbing company that used the trenchless method, which involved pulling a new sewer line through the existing sewer. Trenchless sewers cost almost one-third less than digging up the entire yard and replacing the sewer.

The third home was in Midtown, a hip urban area near downtown Sacramento. During the final walk-through inspection, the buyer’s agent turned on all the water faucets and flushed the toilet. A geyser erupted in the back yard and the smell was unmistakably sewer waste. The seller of that home ended up crediting the buyer many thousands of dollars to pay for a sewer replacement to be installed after closing.

This Midtown buyer was simply lucky. Although advised to get a sewer inspection beforehand, the buyer declined. If it wasn’t for the geyser during the final walk-through, the sewer problem might not have been discovered until months after the transaction closed.

news source - http://homebuying.about.com/od/homeshopping/qt/102407_SewerIns.htm

When to Call a Professional Plumber

March 12th, 2010

No one is an expert at everything, and if you were, you probably wouldn’t be reading this. You wouldn’t diagnose a family member’s ailment and prescribe a remedy, and it’s the same with some plumbing situations. If it were easy then everyone would do it and the “P” section in the phone book would be much thinner.

Gas Lines

Work on gas lines is one of the biggest jobs that should be left to licensed plumbers. A lot of cities require a licensed person to work on gas lines by code. This is due mostly to the danger inherent in working with gas. Small leaks may not be detected by odor alone. A licensed plumber should always have the proper pressure-testing equipment to ensure that there are no leaks in the line.

Another concern with gas lines is the threading of the pipe and fitting of joints. The equipment to do this is expensive to own (and impractical for the average home owner). Improperly threaded pipe could leave connections with leaks small enough to be over looked by the average home owner. The same holds true for tightening on fittings. Believe it or not, over-tightening a fitting can cause as much trouble and an under-tightened fitting. Again, any plumber worth his weight will always pressure test the lines before leaving the job.

Mainlines (Water and Sewer)

Work with any of your mainlines (water and sewer) is also best left to the pros. Just the process of turning the water off at the street ( “curb box” in plumbing lingo) -requires special equipment. A long rod with a special tip, called a street key, is used to shut off service to the line.

As for the main sewer lines, snaking can be done by a confident home owner. For around $50 you can rent a sewer snake for four hours, which should be enough time to clean tree roots from the line, but it doesn’t guarantee that everything will be fine in the line. If the line continues to back up calling a plumber is the only choice, as it means that there is something else wrong with the line. It could be broken or back pitched and a licensed plumber should be able to detect the problem and suggest a solution.

Generally Speaking

As with anything, whenever you feel uncomfortable using equipment or unsure of the proper way to complete the project a professional should be called. They can usually quickly assess the situation and resolve it. They will also notice any foreseeable problems and suggest resolutions.

news source - http://plumbing.about.com/od/basics/a/calltheplumber.htm

How a Septic System Works

March 12th, 2010

Living away from metropolitan areas has many advantages; Less traffic, lower population density and a simpler way of life. Unfortunately, “country living” does come with disadvantages. People living in rural areas are often outside the reach of public sewage systems, leaving them to depend on septic systems for waste disposal.

Not labeled; distribution box. Lays between tank and leach field. Courtesy: US EPA
Not labeled; distribution box. Lays between tank and leach field. Courtesy: US EPA

Types of Systems

There are three types of systems used;

  • anaerobic (septic)
  • aerobic lagoon
  • hybrid aerobic/anaerobic system

The hybrid system is rarely used due to mechanical/electrical components it employs. The anaerobic septic system is the most commonly used. It consists of three main components; tank, distribution box and leach field (drainage field).

Waste Leaving the House

Waste leaves the house through gravitational force and enters the tank through a 4-inch pipe. While in the tank the waste is separated into three by-products; bottom sludge, surface scum and a middle layer of effluent. The sludge and scum are partial broken down by natural occurring anaerobic bacteria in human waste. However, not all the solids will be digested, so the tank will need to be pumped out every three or four years.

From the Tank Out

As waste water enter the tank, an equal amount of effluent liquid exits into the distribution box. The nitrogen rich effluent then leaves the distribution box and enters the leach field. In the leach field the effluent is broken down by another digestion process. The catalyst of this process is natural microbes contained in the top two-feet of soil. About 60 percent of the water is then evaporated , the rest being absorbed by soil or plants.

news source - http://plumbing.about.com/od/septicsystem/a/septicbasic.htm

What to Know About Bathtub Faucet Replacement

February 8th, 2010

In these economically trying times, understanding a bit about simple home repairs and renovation can come in handy. In fact, what to know about a bathtub faucet replacement can save a fair amount of money that might otherwise go to a plumber to perform what is, in actuality, a simple do-it-yourself project.

The first thing to keep in mind is that certain faucets will only work with certain plumbing configurations, and more than a few aren’t actually interchangeable. Therefore, make sure an exact measurement of the faucet holes — done center-to-center — and then take the old faucet, once it’s been removed, along to the store where the new faucet will be purchased.

Keep in mind as well that a typical mixer faucet (the tap where the intermingled hot and cold water emerges) can come in many different sizes and types. It’s important as well to remember that while the style is completely optional, the size must be exact. Now, once the new faucet’s been purchased make sure that all instructions are read completely before installing.

Besides making sure the correct tools are used (pipe wrenches, an open-end wrench with smooth jaws for hex or square nuts or other specialty wrenches), it’s recommended that converting from iron piping to new copper or even plastic tubing be done, if possible. There’s no threading required for either of the two materials, in fact. And always check on local plumbing codes before starting.

Make sure that what’s called a “transition union” set-up be used to attach copper piping to threaded pipe, if that’s the material to be used. One-half of the union is threaded onto the old pipe while the other half is soldered onto the copper pipe. Thread the two halves together after that. One can also use this type of union to join iron pipe to plastic tubing or copper to plastic with a solvent cement, as well.

When it comes to a bathtub faucet replacement job, getting the assembly behind the wall will be the first challenge, but there’s usually a rear access panel in the wall opposite the faucet, so look for that first of all. Look in the closet behind the tub, for instance. The most common faucet assembly is the two-valve, and it’s usually a matter of just unhooking the old faucet assembly and attaching the new assembly, always making sure that all screws and nuts are tightened appropriately and that and threaded assemblies are sealed with pipe tape, where called for.

Article Source - http://ezinearticles.com/?What-to-Know-About-Bathtub-Faucet-Replacement&id=3541019