Archive for March, 2010

Sewer Inspections for Older Homes

Friday, March 12th, 2010

Sewer Line Inspections for Home Buyers

Very few first-time home buyers ask for a sewer inspection before buying a home. Sewer inspections are not something most buyers think about. They know to get a home inspection, but sewer lines are almost an after thought, if it crosses a buyer’s mind at all. Yet it’s one of the most important inspections a buyer of older homes should conduct.

The time to find out if a sewer is faulty or needs replacement is before buying a home, not after the fact. I recommend to all my buyers that they obtain a sewer inspection if the home is older than 20 years. Although the sewer line may be fairly new as compared to homes built before 1950, for example, tree roots can still clog up a 20-year-old sewer line.

Reasons to Inspect the Sewer Line

Tree roots growing into sewer lines is a common problem. Roots crawl into tiny openings and expand in the sewer line, latching on to other debris that typically cause backups such as grease or eggshell waste. Sometimes chemicals can kill the trees roots but if the roots reappear, the pipe may be damaged and require excavation to fix the problem.

Homes that were constructed prior to city sewers often relied on cesspools. After cities installed public septic systems, sometimes the cesspools were left intact and connected to the sewer line. You won’t know unless you inspect the sewer.

Many homes built in the 1950s have sewer lines made from tar paper called Orangeburg pipes. These disintegrate and collapse over time. If a home has Orangeburg, the sewer line definitely needs to be replaced.

How to Inspect a Sewer Line

Simply call a plumbing company and ask if the contractor can use a camera to inspect the sewer. Your real estate agent might be able to refer several companies to you. The plumbing company inserts a snake attached to a small video camera into the clean-out and snakes the camera through the sewer. You can watch the image on a monitor.

Not only will the plumbing company find out if the sewer line is clean or clogged, but the inspection will disclose the condition of the sewer. Ask the contractor to tell you what kind of material was used to construct the sewer line and whether that type of material is considered good construction today.

It might cost anywhere from $85 to $300 to have the sewer line inspected, but considering the cost to replace a sewer line, it’s money well spent.

Results From Sewer Inspections

Three homes recently inspected produced three separate results. The first home, built in 1930, was located in the Land Park neighborhood of Sacramento. The buyers, expecting the worst, were pleasantly surprised to learn the sewer line was brand new. This was a desirable selling point that the listing agent and the seller neglected to disclose.

The second home was located near the railroad tracks in Curtis Park. The plumbing company discovered the sewer line had almost completely collapsed and was beyond repair. The company recommended a new sewer line. The seller chose a plumbing company that used the trenchless method, which involved pulling a new sewer line through the existing sewer. Trenchless sewers cost almost one-third less than digging up the entire yard and replacing the sewer.

The third home was in Midtown, a hip urban area near downtown Sacramento. During the final walk-through inspection, the buyer’s agent turned on all the water faucets and flushed the toilet. A geyser erupted in the back yard and the smell was unmistakably sewer waste. The seller of that home ended up crediting the buyer many thousands of dollars to pay for a sewer replacement to be installed after closing.

This Midtown buyer was simply lucky. Although advised to get a sewer inspection beforehand, the buyer declined. If it wasn’t for the geyser during the final walk-through, the sewer problem might not have been discovered until months after the transaction closed.

news source - http://homebuying.about.com/od/homeshopping/qt/102407_SewerIns.htm

When to Call a Professional Plumber

Friday, March 12th, 2010

No one is an expert at everything, and if you were, you probably wouldn’t be reading this. You wouldn’t diagnose a family member’s ailment and prescribe a remedy, and it’s the same with some plumbing situations. If it were easy then everyone would do it and the “P” section in the phone book would be much thinner.

Gas Lines

Work on gas lines is one of the biggest jobs that should be left to licensed plumbers. A lot of cities require a licensed person to work on gas lines by code. This is due mostly to the danger inherent in working with gas. Small leaks may not be detected by odor alone. A licensed plumber should always have the proper pressure-testing equipment to ensure that there are no leaks in the line.

Another concern with gas lines is the threading of the pipe and fitting of joints. The equipment to do this is expensive to own (and impractical for the average home owner). Improperly threaded pipe could leave connections with leaks small enough to be over looked by the average home owner. The same holds true for tightening on fittings. Believe it or not, over-tightening a fitting can cause as much trouble and an under-tightened fitting. Again, any plumber worth his weight will always pressure test the lines before leaving the job.

Mainlines (Water and Sewer)

Work with any of your mainlines (water and sewer) is also best left to the pros. Just the process of turning the water off at the street ( “curb box” in plumbing lingo) -requires special equipment. A long rod with a special tip, called a street key, is used to shut off service to the line.

As for the main sewer lines, snaking can be done by a confident home owner. For around $50 you can rent a sewer snake for four hours, which should be enough time to clean tree roots from the line, but it doesn’t guarantee that everything will be fine in the line. If the line continues to back up calling a plumber is the only choice, as it means that there is something else wrong with the line. It could be broken or back pitched and a licensed plumber should be able to detect the problem and suggest a solution.

Generally Speaking

As with anything, whenever you feel uncomfortable using equipment or unsure of the proper way to complete the project a professional should be called. They can usually quickly assess the situation and resolve it. They will also notice any foreseeable problems and suggest resolutions.

news source - http://plumbing.about.com/od/basics/a/calltheplumber.htm

How a Septic System Works

Friday, March 12th, 2010

Living away from metropolitan areas has many advantages; Less traffic, lower population density and a simpler way of life. Unfortunately, “country living” does come with disadvantages. People living in rural areas are often outside the reach of public sewage systems, leaving them to depend on septic systems for waste disposal.

Not labeled; distribution box. Lays between tank and leach field. Courtesy: US EPA
Not labeled; distribution box. Lays between tank and leach field. Courtesy: US EPA

Types of Systems

There are three types of systems used;

  • anaerobic (septic)
  • aerobic lagoon
  • hybrid aerobic/anaerobic system

The hybrid system is rarely used due to mechanical/electrical components it employs. The anaerobic septic system is the most commonly used. It consists of three main components; tank, distribution box and leach field (drainage field).

Waste Leaving the House

Waste leaves the house through gravitational force and enters the tank through a 4-inch pipe. While in the tank the waste is separated into three by-products; bottom sludge, surface scum and a middle layer of effluent. The sludge and scum are partial broken down by natural occurring anaerobic bacteria in human waste. However, not all the solids will be digested, so the tank will need to be pumped out every three or four years.

From the Tank Out

As waste water enter the tank, an equal amount of effluent liquid exits into the distribution box. The nitrogen rich effluent then leaves the distribution box and enters the leach field. In the leach field the effluent is broken down by another digestion process. The catalyst of this process is natural microbes contained in the top two-feet of soil. About 60 percent of the water is then evaporated , the rest being absorbed by soil or plants.

news source - http://plumbing.about.com/od/septicsystem/a/septicbasic.htm